New York, New York

Novelist Truman Capote once wrote, “New York is the only real city city.” I know what he means. Nowhere else in the world does your rhythm pick up as soon as you enter it. I’ve spent time in Paris, Madrid, Rome, Cairo, and Birdsville, Australia, and nowhere else do you get the feeling “I am at the center of civilization” except New York. One of the hoods on The Sopranos said, “Boston is Scranton with clams” (compared to New York). I agree, and I’m a Red Sox fan.

Recently Kristen and I spent three days in the city. That’s what you call New York if you live anywhere near it as I did as a kid. She had not been to New York since she was 12 and didn’t remember much, so I got to do my tour guide bit, which I admit I enjoy.

I had access to a cool apartment on the East side within walking distance of Central Park, the 5th Ave stores and three hundred dogs who relieve themselves each morning on the streets. Most of the owners do a good job of cleaning up after their pets, but I never could figure out why anyone would want a dog in New York City. It’s like having a teenager at a retirement home. No one wins.

We went on the ferry ride to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. I’ve been to the Statue several times and I always am in awe of it. Say what you want about the French, but they gave us four great things: Lafayette, The Statue, French Cuisine and nasty lingerie.

Ellis Island was a surprise. It was great to see where my relatives stood in line to enter America, but it is mostly empty. The place was abandoned for many years and the furnishings are for the most part gone. Still, it is amazing to walk the halls and see the story of how so many of our people passed through this one tiny island to struggle for the freedom that allows their great-grandchildren to ignore their parents’ cell phone calls.

The view of the Financial District from the ferry is wonderful. After our ride, we walked from The Battery along the mouth of the Hudson River to a lovely area with parks, restaurants, a marina and a great view of the refurbished riverside towns in New Jersey. Lower Manhattan.  After lunch I told Kristen, “ Let’s walk a bit more, and then I’ll get a cab.” We strolled two blocks and there it is. Ground Zero. It is very easy to find, look for the tall cranes, listen for construction noise, and taste the dust in the air. It was the worst event that happened in many of our lives, and it is hard to believe that we are still looking for that ugly devil.

On Kristen’s birthday I took her to The Russian Tea Room. The place was one of the most famous spots for dinner, drinks and celebrities about twenty years ago. It closed for a while but has reopened, and the over-the-top splendor of the place remains. Bright red leather banquettes, shimmering chandeliers decorated with Christmas tree bulbs, gold painted trim, all explode visually when you walk through the door.  Portions are small, prices are high, but the food was very good.  Kristen looked great in a soft emerald green dress, which worked perfectly with the strong Christmas colors of the Tea Room. I had on my navy blazer and a white shirt with a blue and orange tie. Other people were similarly dressed, except the guy with the pretty girl at the table in front of us. They were both about twenty. She wore a simple beige summer dress and he wore cargo shorts, an old gray t-shirt, sandals and a ball cap. He probably has more money in a trust fund than I will earn all my life. There are no dress codes in America anymore. You can probably get served at the best restaurant in New York if you walked in wearing a jock strap with a cactus up your ass.

We also ate at the Grand Central Station Oyster Bar. Wonderful chowders and a look back at what life was like for travelers in the 1930’s.

My favorite new thing in the city is a large sculpture of the famous photo of construction guys taking a lunch break on a steel beam high above the streets with no safety harnesses. The photo is freaky-scary and the sculpture, which is right around the corner from Carnegie Hall, is a good likeness. It’s on the street and you can sit on it like you are one of the guys.

Just before we left I went by Bloomingdale’s to see if I could pick up a cool clothing item for the fall that you could only find in New York. I noticed a lot of waist- length leather jackets that were great looking. I picked one out, and then noticed the price. $2,300.00. That is right at the cost of a semester at college for my daughter Ally. I didn’t get it. But I bet that kid with the trust fund at The Russian Tea Room will. And he will lose it.

Comments

[karen e otstot]

OK Bob...Love the blog but really, how much Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay did you have while writing it?! "jock strap with a cactus up your ass"? Cool line Bob! By the way, have you ever read any Robert B. Parker? Your style of prose reminds me of him.

[Angela]

Hey Bob, I love your blogs, especially this one on your New York trip. We are visiting there for vacation this weekend. It was great to read about the places you enjoyed, thanks for sharing!

[Sarah]

Bob, loved this one...yet again, I have to admit that "There are no dress codes in America anymore. You can probably get served at the best restaurant in New York if you walked in wearing a jock strap with a cactus up your ass," stole the show...

[Charlotte]

Bob, Love the blog! You're doing well with this writing stuff. Very entertaining. And how I agree w/Sarah and Karen ... "wearing a jock strap with a cactus up your ass," stole the show... I am too paying college tuition for my son cause of course like you I want to give him the start that I didn't take advantage of. The costs of crap today ... whew! And then you see some idiot guy in a first rate place like you were. What's the world coming to? Love ya Bob!

[Kirsten Manwarren]

Bob, wearing a jock strap, cactus up the ass - wouldn't that scratch up the leather chair?
dress code? work ethic???
Hello...
just happy you have such a wonderful lady friend to enjoy your time with
take care, Kirsten

[Christina]

Hey Bob! Wonderful description of your trip...your comment about the "Cactus" couldn't be more accurate...I hate the fact that people don't know how to dress any longer. I spend a lot of time trying to make sure my kids understand that dressing well for an occasion (or place) puts them one step ahead of the rest of their peers.

My husband and I are going back to the "City" in September - I grew up in Queens - and will be doing the "Old Home Tour" with him as well as the Ellis Island visit (my italian grandmother came through there in 1905). Very glad to hear the Russian Tea Room has reopened - can't wait to go back and see the old places and enjoy the city!